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STUDY TRIP ABROAD, FALL, 2006
Port to Port Perfection, Venice to Genoa via Florence

Venice Grand Canal

Venice Grand Canal from our hotel with the Rialto Bridge in the background.

This year’s Study Trip Abroad, The Grand Tour II: Port to Port, Venice to Genoa via Florence, was a “tour de force,” thanks to everyone involved, especially the brilliant ideas of Helen Scott Reed, Trust Governor who so ably designs these explorations, and Susie Orso, the amazing organizer who makes our dreams come true. But, no matter how wonderful the trip it would never be a success if the group taking it were not as fabulous. Many thanks to the wonderful group whose questions, input, ideas and knowledge pushed this Study Trip over the top!

Professor Mario di Valmarana in front of the stage of Palladio’s Teatro Olympico.

Some of the highlights include the private nighttime visit to St. Mark’s Cathedral with its dramatic new lighting system and its historic Pala d’Oro. We were the only ones there, sitting in the dark as the lights slowly rose. It was silent, and you could feel the glorious atmosphere from the time of the Doges. From the decorative art objects point of view, our luncheon visit to one of the most intact private palazzos in Venice was thrilling. As the Marchesa showed us through, she noted that the palazzo had been refurbished by the family in 1830, the furniture throughout was made and installed then, and the paintings were hung at that time. Everything is still there, in its rightful place and in wonderful condition.

Seeing Villa Cornaro through the eyes of Sally and Carl Gable was a special treat. Carl talked about how the site affected Palladio’s design. There was already a villa next door, and on the other side was a barn, so Palladio had to build up. Palladio thought that architecture should mirror nature. His proportions used the ratio of 6 to 10 throughout the rooms, but 2 to 3 in the central parts of the house. (Note: With the passing of our dear friend Edmund A. Rennolds, Jr., of Richmond, VA, who was head of the Center for Palladian Studies in America for many years, Carl Gable has been elected president). During our visit to the museum Ca Rezzonica in Venice, we saw a fantastic collection of furniture made of boxwood and ebony by Andrea Brastolon, the ebonist from Bellano.

Decorative Arts Trust Study Trip Abroad 2006 at Villa Rotunda with owners Mario and Betty di Valmarana. L to R, front row: Mary Hale McLean, The Valmaranas, Maryann Conn-Brody, Bob Brody, Bobbie and Buck Carr, Deanne Akre, Penny Hunt. 2nd row: George Murray, Dean and Marie Failey, Ann-Lee Bugbee and Flora McInnes. 3rd row: Kathleen Mulhern, Kelly Schrimsher, Kate and Preston Smart, Mary Ross Fisher, Chuck Akre. 4th row: Helen Scott Reed, Ralph Harvard, John Hunt, Camilla Sorenson and Sharon Carter. 5th row: Randy Schrimsher and Carl Sorenson.

Our visit to Genoa started with an approach to the city through the old port that felt like a step back in time. The historic stately buildings, both commercial and private homes, along very narrow dark streets with a healthy variety of nationalities carrying on with their lives, seemed like an open door into the past centuries. Further, our luncheon visit to the Castle of Montaldeo with Marchese and Marchesa Clemente Doria gave us a good perspective on town and county living in the Genoa area. Their restoration efforts on the reasonably sized castle were admirable. As always, visiting La Rotonda with Betty and Mario di Valmarana is a pinnacle for any trip. It is wonderful to see Palladio’s Villa Rotunda inside and out, and to hear their personal and academic accounts. La Rotunda, just off the old Roman road, is the first time a dome was used on a secular building.

The Study Trip Abroad 2007 will be the Hapsburgs’ Austria. The details are expected to be sent to Trust members in February.

Exterior of Italian country house, Villa Torrigiani, still lived in by the original family.

 

(At left) Kathleen Mulhern, Philadelphia, absorbed by the beauty of the Villa La Pietra gardens overlooking Florence.
(At right) Back stool made in 1830 expressly for sitting on a Venetian balcony overlooking the Grand Canal, as seen by Trust members in a private palazzo.
Today’s entrance to Villa Rotunda.

 


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